060709

Come with me, I know the Way!
But, it will take an entire Day!

290609

Gone, soon to be!

Sucking Her dry,
Killing the whales,
Consuming ourselves,
How smart are
We?

Unevolved,
Gun-toting monsters,
Blind to Thee;
We!

Running about
Chasing the almighty dollar,
Forgetting Mother Earth;
We!

Nothing matters but consumption,
Distraction, a
Contraption;
We!

Gone, soon to be!

260609

'Here at all?'

I want to live!
I want to die!
I want to ride far,
And not at all!
I want to climb high,
Then sink very low!

I want to love!
I want to hate!
I want to be great;
To be nothing at all!
I want to see!
I want to hear!
To be healthy,
To be ill,
To write a Will,
To leave nothing at all,
Just disappear!

Then when I'm dead and gone,
Will I have been
Here at all?


'Great about humanity?'

Humanity
Bereft of!

Hating each other,
Killing each other,
Lying to each other,
Stealing from each other,
Torturing each other,
Stingy with each other,
Arguing with each other,
Unconscious of each other,
Causing endless suffering!

Tell me, what is so
Great about humanity?

250609

Here is 'Singularity' as described by Shakespeare:

"Property was thus appall'd,
That the self was not the same;
Single nature's double name
Neither two nor one was call'd.

Reason in itself confounded
Saw division grow together..."

220609

Saturn Twice!  (continues)

Tian Chi ('Heavenly Lake') National Park, Xinjiang, A.R., China

The next morning, somewhat rested I was happy I could still walk!  The effects of cycling up to Tian Chi in one day (110KM) lingered in my old bones!  In retrospect, however, I wasn't in the physical condition I should have been to tackle such an effort.  Now, in 2009, it would be less of a challenge (and I'm three-years older)!

What amazed me, as always in China, the number of people swarming around like bees!  Buses came and went bringing a never-ending stream of Chinese tourists.  This pristine mountain lake developed like a 'Disneyland,' with tour boats, restaurants (one floating), Kazaks hawking horse rides, and handicraft shops ('Sell, sell, sell, everything you stand for!').  So over developed, this National Park, our Kazak camp had the latest compost toilet (only one I've seen in China).  People were everywhere, walking, coughing, riding horses, taking pictures, eating, sightseeing, yelling, screaming, spitting!  I hadn't known what to expect, but it wasn't this Disneyland atmosphere.

The first morning, we walked to the foot of the lake, where all the development has taken place, where the cable car lands from below.  We decided to continue walking to a Taoist Temple perched on the side of a hill across an inlet.  Of course, boats ferried people back and forth, but I'm always for walking, exerting, (even though tired from the previous day)!  'Use it or lose it!'

The path to the Taoist Temple had been 'carved' out of a hillside and sheer rock wall.  But, the Chinese are amazing at any type of construction, particularly concrete  -- they can make anything.  They have 'armies' of people who work for little and like ants.  At some point the path was just a wooden 'shelf' bolted to the rock wall, some 10 meters above the azure blue water.  This 'development,' however, made for an easy hike to the Temple.  Always with what is perceived as 'bad,' there's a little 'good,' and vice versa.

The Temple overlooking the Lake was majestic.  I would have liked to move in, but of course impossible.  It wasn't like the Asura Buddhist Monastery in Pharping where guests can rent rooms.  Out front they had a huge bell, the ringer a log you swung to strike the bell.  Li Jian obliged, and a low reverberating sound carried across the water. Of course the monks were selling all kinds of things.  As I mentioned earlier, everything costs in China, even the toilet!  And for sure for tourist 'attractions' like monasteries.  Any kind of attraction you're going to pay a 'hefty' fee!

We made the mistake of paying for a boat ride, as it was too much for too little.  I don't think it lasted 20 minutes, basically out and back, for 100RMB / $12U.S. each.  'Slam bam, thank you ma'am!'  You get 'fucked' all the time in China (by the Government)!

I wonder sometimes what Chairman Mao would say to all of this, as vehemently opposed to capitalism?  Of course, they have a response reconciling the two worlds, but 'bullshit!'  Mao's motto was, 'Serve the People!'  Now it's, 'Serve the Government!'

We took to hiking around the Lake, getting away from the crowds.  Every time we went further and further, until one time we got all the way to 'base camp' at Bogeda ('Heavenly Mountain'), its snow-covered peak 5,545M / 17, 865 ft. high.  It was our best day in the Park, we saw more sheep than people!  We also had to ford several streams going and returning.  I remember we walked a log over one.  Returning we found ourselves trapped on the wrong side.  We surveyed, going both up and down stream until we found a span we thought we could jump.  But, I had to throw my backpack over to Li jian, as I was afraid with it on my back.  Then safely on the trail side, we spread my 'space blanket' down on some grass and had our picnic lunch.  With the River flowing right in front of us we fell into a reverie (Li Jian falling asleep.).  It had been a perfect hike!

Back in 'civilization' we walked down to the village for dinner.  One of my favor foods in China is 'polou,' or a Uyghur rice pilaf cooked with lamb (the lamb I take out.).  Of course, in this part of the world (Xinjiang, or 'Uyghur land') they have plenty of it.  Of course, Li Jian, like all Han Chinese, prefers noodles.

One day we rode our bicycles up a steep road behind our camp.  Not far up I discovered a most amazing modern building, looking like it had been designed by Frank Lloyd Wright.  It turned out to be a hotel (with no guests) -- such contrasts in China.  Further up the pavement ran out and we were on dirt.  But, over the top we discovered an idyllic scene.  In a pastural setting, a small grass basin, sheep grazed.  Sheep are 'eating machines growing wool.'  The serenity of it all made me sit down and contemplate living there (or atleast someplace just like it).  The scene mesmerized me.   A couple hundred meters away was another Kazak yurt camp.  I made a note to stay there if I ever returned to the Park.  One reason to return... To see if I could crank all the way to the top in one day!

I, via the 'Lonely Planet' Guide, had read about a place on the Lake where you could camp.  We'd passed it a couple of times, but had never stopped.  One day we did, and glad for it. It was set up to cater to foreign backpackers, and besides a little English, there were picnic tables.  Li Jian even had the woman cook 'polou' for me, but it took forever, the rice.  I remember meeting some other foreigners there, and it's always nice to have a sophisticated conversation.  If there's anything I miss living in China it's sophistication.  But, who would understand?

Coming to our close of our stay at Tian Chi National Park, I felt mixed emotions.  I would have been happy to live up there where the sheep grazed, but I knew I had to move on.  'The woods are lovely, dark and deep, but I have promises to keep and miles to go before I sleep.'

Unexpectedly, we had a our Kazak 'yurtkeeper' try to pull a 'fast one' on us.  When we booked from Urumqi, the rate was 100RMB per. Now, about to 'check out,' he demanded 200RMB per.  I said 'no way!'  Li Jian was perplexed.  They argued.  Neither budged.  'Kazak, no good man!' Li Jian yelled, as he entered the yurt.  Visibly upset, he didn't seem to know what to do.  I recommended he go to the Park police.  He indicated that they would be no help.  I shrugged, not having any other idea except, 'slipping out the back Jack!'  We slept on it.

The next day they argued again.  Now, Li Jian was really pissed off.  Then he disappeared.  When he returned he was with a policeman.  The policeman essentially told our Kazak 'yurtkeeper' to charge us only 100RMB per as agreed.  Chastized, his demeanor changed after that.  To compensate, however, I gave him an extra 100RMB for the hot water, etc. his wife had brought.  This made him smile and all seemed to be forgiven.  So, we departed having 'dodged a bullet,' and without a ruckus.  It's always good to compromise, as the best is in the middle!  'The Middle Way,' Lord Buddha called it.

It was all 'downhill' after that, and whereas the trip up took 13 hours, this trip back, going essentially downhill, took only 9 hours.  Out of the Tian Shan you're in a desert called, 'Gurbantunggut Shamo.' I remember a 'herd' of camels crossing the highway.  Ironically, I learned more about camels living in Xinjiang, China than at any other time in my life.

But, then there was the time in Libya when I shipped a young camel to New York City...

200609

Saturn Twice!  (Continues)

My China...

'My China' begins west of Lanzhou (Gansu Province), Chengdu (Sichuan Province), and Kunming (Yunnan Province)  This is basically western China.  You can have the rest of it (eastern China) as, congested, polluted, disease-prone, low, green and wet (mosquitos), and little sun (note Han Chinese people don't really like direct contact with the sun, whereas I crave it).  Of course, when I first arrived in China, I didn't know. 

I came to China for several reasons, hoping to combine them into some kind of synthesis that would make sense.  First, I thought it might be a good place to launch www.makemagictogether.com (my idea of a 'virtual' artist's community).  Secondly, my bicycle 'Pilgrimage to Mt. Kailas,' and lastly to partake of the culture which gave birth to Taoism (as I had become a Taoist monk in Nepal).  The first two required action, but I wasn't sure how they would fit?

The Beijing Olympics, coming up in 2008, gave me a potential opportunity (to promote a new business).  I had a relationship with the American broadcaster NBC, via Dick Ebersol (the Chairman) an old colleague.  I got an idea to supply bilingual production assistants for the Olympic Games in Beijing.  I had even devised a television series, in which candidates (for the P.A. jobs) competed in a 'College Bowl' type format (questions about the Olympic Games).  We went to Beijing to meet Dick's minions, the people that arrive early to do all the ground work.  But, later when NBC wouldn't sign a contract I bowed out.  So much for old friends, we forget.

At that point I decided to head for Mt. Kailas (in Tibet).  So, one day I got on a train and departed Shanghai.  It was a long ride to Chengdu, where I planned to get on Ms. Fiets, and ride up into Tibet and Mt. Kailas.  I met a charming Chinese couple who could speak some English, thus making the 24-hour trip more interesting. 

Arriving in Chengdu (low, wet and green) I noticed it had started to rain!  But, what we faced exiting the Train Station that evening was more like a torrential downpour (you were drenched within minutes).  I had booked a room in Sim's Guesthouse, which seemed to cater to backpackers and cyclists like me.  They only problem, finding it.  My friends tried to help me get a taxi, but none of them knew where Sim's was located.  Finally, my new friends had to go.  So, there I was laden with baggage, dripping wet, and with no ride to Sim's.  What to do?  When the going gets tough, the tough get creative!

Spying a police station I carried my luggage out of the rain, and went inside.   I was greeted by four uniformed policemen behind a counter.  Luckily one of them spoke some English.  I'm sure they must of thought I was pretty stupid, as I didn't even have Sim's telephone # handy.  I think I assumed a taxi driver would know where to go no problem.  I got an idea, however, as I knew Sim's had a website.  Of course, they had no Internet connection in this little sub station.  But, the policeman who could speak English gestured to follow him.  I wasn't sure what was happening, but they put my luggage inside, and I followed them into an one of their police cars.  We drove to a Net Bar.  I was slightly amazed by all this, as it would never happen in the U.S.

Inside everything came to a screeching halt when we appeared, two Chinese policemen and one foreigner ('loawei').  I suppose everyone thought it was a raid!  I was quickly given a computer, and within minutes I had Sim's telephone number which I gave to the English-speaking policeman.  He called Sim's and handed me the telephone.  Seems after all of this, it would be difficult to pick me up.  I should have changed my plans at that point, but after some pleading (actually I bribed them with money), they said they'd come.
So, back to the Train Station we went.

I had to wait, I don't know how long, but finally someone from Sim's showed up.

Sim's turned out to be a pretty 'cool' facility but in a poor location (next to a vacant lot which had become a swamp).  My room was on the second floor, in an old wooden structure (very unusal for China).  The bathroom was outside, but not far.  The showers were too far, and not all that inviting.  But, Sim's had a bar, restaurant, laundry room, computers/Internet, and just about everything you could want. They locked Ms. Fiets, still in her box, in their luggage room, and I took to walking around the neighborhood.

Nearby a large Buddhist Temple called, Wenshu.  I must have walked the crooked streets around it a dozen times during my stay, but never went inside (visited many before).  What I was looking for was a computer shop, and an ATM/bank.  I finally found both.

I forget what my computer problem was (I had a Toshiba laptop), but I think it had to do with uploading pictures from a CD (still using film back then), and the fact the English software couldn't understand Chinese.  And the Chinese people working in this shop never really understood (because I really couldn't explain in Chinese).  I finally brought the computer to demonstrate, and we figured it out together.

One day, just outside this shop, I ran into a European couple travelling on a tandem bicycle (very unusual).  They invited me to a party at their Guesthouse ('Cozy' something...?) where they were staying.

So that night I walked over to 'Cozy's Guesthouse' to discover cramped quarters but a friendly Chinese host! The place was crowded with backpacks, bicycles, books, luggage, furniture, drying laundry!  I soon discovered, via the European cycling couple, a robust group of travelers who had cooked a western feast, including beer.  They invited me to join them.

One of the women was named Cheryl, I'm not sure from where.  She was married to a German man named, Kai.  I don't think I've ever been impressed so quickly with two people in my life.  Before departing that night I'd offered Cheryl a job!   Cheryl's the kind of woman, that no problem fazes!  She had orchestrated this dinner with such aplomb it was poetry in motion.  Disparate people came and went, but it was like we were 'family' having gathered for a reunion.  I departed with some sadness knowing I'd never see any of them again (and haven't).  Departing, the Chinese owner ('Mr. Cozy') chastized me for staying at Sim's.  I told him the next time I'd stay there at his place.

A postscript to the dinner at Cozy's:  Cheryl and Kai, now living in the Phillipines, still communicate with me via email.  I have gotten the feeling they are Christian missionaries, but I've never confirmed.

After a couple of nights at Sim's I was informed I'd have to move.  I had only told them two or three nights, and someone else had booked the room.  What to do?  The one single room I'd spied was occupied, so I had to move into a common room sharing with another guest.  This turned out to be unpleasant as small and the Chinese man snored (of course)!  Luckily he departed after the first night and I was left alone.

I visited the Qingyang Gong Taoist Temple, on the northwest side of Chengdu.  I don't know how I got there or if I went with anyone, but I remembering having to pay an entrance fee.  Nothing is free in China, nothing!  'The Temple' is a large complex of buildings, and took time to wander around, all yin/yang and trigrams.  But, a better description:

"The Qingyang Gong Temple is one of the most famous Taoist temples in China. It was originally built in the Tang Dynasty (618-907), a period when Taoism was flourishing. Most of the parts of the temple that remain in existence are restorations from the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911), including Sanqing Hall, Doulao Hall, Hunyuan Palace, the Eight Trigrams Pavilion, and Wuji Palace.  Beside the altar of Sanqing Hall stand two eye-catching bronze goats, which were said to be taken from Beijing during the Qing Dynasty. One of the goats is actually a strange creature with a mouse's ears, an ox's nose, a tiger's claw, a rabbit's mouth, a dragon's horns, a snake's tail, a horse's face, a goat's beard, a monkey's neck, a chicken's eyes, a dog's belly and a pig's thighs.  Every part symbolizes one animal in the Chinese Zodiac. It was said that these goats were the spirits, and can cure any ill body just by touching them."

And so, of course, I patted them, these two bronze goats which are said to symbolize Lao Zi (father of Taoism)!

This didn't help me a couple days later, however!  I was walking in Chenghu, enthralled with large mural ADs on the side of a building.  I was transfixed with these ADs when my shin crashed into an unforgiving piece of rebar someone had built across the sidewalk.  I fell over it, breaking my fall with my hands, but the pain, memorable!  Bleeding, I walked on trying to ignore it, but cursing whomever did such. 

One thing about China that's different from the West... It's a version of 'caveat emptor,' or 'Let the buyer beware!'   There is no public concern for your safety!  If you get hurt it's your own fault, and you have no recourse (as in suing for damages).  There are few warning signs of any danger (ahead).  If you slip and fall, tough shit!  If you get killed, you were unlucky!  There is little sympathy for anyone beyond immediate family and friends.  It's a tougher/colder culture than the U.S. Although the average Chinese person has been friendly, warm, helpful and generous to me.  Maybe because I'm an older 'foreigner' ('laowei') riding a bicycle.

But, there really is no discernible public courtesy in China.  'Out there,' you're just another 'piece of meat,' in somebody's way, or a potential 'mark' to rip off.  They will push their way in front of you in line, as there's such competition for space/time!  Ironically, just the reverse is true in private (when you're introduced). There's much 'kowtowing' (Confucian in origin) to those they think are important and can help them. In the West isn't it just the opposite, where we try to be courteous to strangers, but not always so much so with our own friends and family?

My plan had been to cycle from Chengdu up into Tibet, but for some reason it didn't seem feasible at the time.  What beckoned was Xinjiang, A.R., and a Lake, Tian Chi (near Urumqi).  Additionally, I'd always wanted to partake of Kashgar on 'The Silk Road.'   I figured I'd cycle up to Mt. Kailas from the west, from Kashgar.  So, I decided to take the train to Urumqi, an even longer train ride (36-hours).   I wisely booked a 'hard berth' this time, no 'hard seat' torture for me ever again!

I don't know how, but I met a Chinese man on the train who turned out to be an English Teacher.  Of course, Chinese English teachers are always interested in talking to native English speakers.  He turned out to be a good guy, who I'm still friends with to this very day!  He was on his way to Urumqi to visit a relative.  He gave me my Chinese name, 'Haqi' which meant at the time, 'Happily riding my bicycle everywhere!'  He bought me dinner in the dining car.  He translated for me, when a Chinese person inquired.  We became friends.

As the train glided through Gansu Province, the terrain changing from green to brown, and I remember getting happier and happier.  To the south, the Qi Lian Shan (mountain range) with its snow-capped peaks.  Then before and after Hami (in Xinjiang, A.R.), a stunning desert terrain.  In Hami I got off to partake of the dry, warm weather.  I suddenly felt 'at home,' having grown up in Tucson, Arizona.

Hours west of Hami the train began its climb up and over a 'finger' of the Tian Shan (mountain range).  Then after a few tunnels, we were down on the northern steppes, passing a large lake to the south, and entering the outskirts of Urumqi, the Provential Capitol of Xinjiang A.R.

In Urumqi, James (his English name) helped to me find a hotel.  It wasn't much but I didn't have a choice.  Inexpensive at 50RMB / $7U.S. per night, the common bath was down at the end of the hallway.  The worst part of it was the noise, the guests, working-class Chinese, partying, drinking, smoking, yelling and screaming at all hours!  But, there's always something a little good, in a something 'bad,' and vice versa.  I met a life long friend in this hotel, Li Jian, a young Chinese man.

One day we passed each, as he had an 'office' on the same floor (the 3rd).  He said 'hello' in English and I responded ending up in his room.  He, liking beer, offered some, and we tried to communicate as he knew little English.  He was there for his company, actually living/working in Hubei Province (the one that surrounds Beijing).  His company manufactured batteries for motor bikes.  I assumed he was there selling or opening a store.

One day I got him on a regular bicycle and we cycled around Urumqi.  Then when it came time for me to cycle up to Tian Chi, the Lake that had beckoned me, he wanted to join me.  I wasn't sure he could, after looking at the bicycle he'd borrowed from a friend (pretty sad).  But, one day we set out on what was to be a memorable trip.

I had looked on a map several days prior and figured it was a two-day trip (as it's nothing but up the last half (40KM).  We departed early in the morning, threading our way out of the metropolis.  I forget the name of the town north of Urumqi, but it's about 30KM distance.  Here was the first problem with his bicycle.  Luckily, we quickly found a repair guy, and not far off the highway.  The next problem was a pedal coming off his cheap Chinese bicycle.  We were dealing with it when a group from the Xinjiang Elder Cyclists Group passed.  Some of them stopped to help and inquire as curious about us (older 'laowei' and younger Chinese guy).  They too were headed to Tian Chi.  I thought this was a bit of luck, that we might joing them.

Later we finally caught up with them and we had lunch together in town, about halfway, and where you turn south to go up into Tian Chi National Park.

After lunch, I remember we passed some of them resting in the shade, I thought the others were ahead of us.  But, we never saw any of them again.

At this point we started going up, the grade increasing.  And as luck would have it Li Jian's bicycle pedal finally came off for good.  We walked for awhile pushing our bicycles, me now realizing I'd been somehow 'suckered' into going all the way in one day.  The Elder Group had made me think it was possible.  But, now they had disappeared.

I told Li Jian, he should take a bus, that we'd meet up at the Park entrance.  And it wasn't much further that one stopped only 100 meters in front of us.  He ran and caught a ride, throwing his bicycle on top of the bus (standard procedure in China).  Now alone my ride got more interesting the higher I cranked, but at the same time more difficult.  It was slow going.

After an hour or so I finally saw a huge Government building, which I knew meant I'd finally reached the Park entrance.  Wrong!  But, at least I found Li Jian waiting in a large parking lot (where there were many buses).  Seems this was where the long-distance buses parked, and you had the option of walking the road, hiking the hill, catching a smaller bus, or taking a cable-car up to the Lake.  I think there were taxis too.  Of course, I wasn't going to give up, as our goal was only 6KM more (something like 110KM total).

But, Lord, the last 6KM turned out to be a 'killer!'  The grade so steep we could only push.  By now, Li Jian was so tired he couldn't even speak.  When we finally partook of the Lake (a stuning vista actually) we were both exhausted.  There was still more, however, the day seemingly endless!  Li Jian found our Kazak Yurt camp (we'd booked in advance), but it was up yet another hill.  At least the road was paved!

By the time, we got into our yurt ('Kazak house,' the Chinese call them) I could barely function!  I stumbled around trying to make my special tea, I knew would help me recover.  Soon after that both of us made our beds, and I crawled into my sleeping bag.  Li Jian slept in the bedding they provide.

We looked at each other smiling, happily resting;  doused lights and fell asleep!

210609

Heaven! (210609, Summer Solstice)

Longest day,
Darkest moon
In June,
What a tune
Nature's song!

Nothing can go wrong
Or right,
Like night
And day
Just changing,
Rearranging
Heaven!

170609

Saturn Twice! (continues)

China... The 'Government's Republic of China' ('GRC')...

I had a student in the U.S., an acting student.  Her English name was 'Stephanie,' but she was born and grew up in Shanghai, China.  Beyond the acting class we became friends.  She told me if I ever visited China to contact here she would help me with whatever needed.  So, before departing for Shanghai I contacted her, of course, and told her I was on the way.

I'd been in China before, Hong Kong, way back when (but not really considered China), and Lhasa, Tibet (which is considered China) in 1999.  So, China wasn't totally new or 'foreign' to me (having studied Taoism).  But, part of the reason for going to China was that I craved a 'very foreign' experience.  I'd lived in Mexico and Europe, but basically they're western cultures.  I'd lived in Nepal, and it was decidedly different.  But, since 'English' had colonized India, it overlapped into Nepal.  All the shop and street signs in Kathmandu, are in English, and most Nepalese speak English.  So, even though I would label Nepal 'exotic,' because of Hinduism, it's still more western than China (its neighbor to the north).

China, isolated for so long and xenophobic to boot, is a completely different culture from the U.S. -- completely!  On the opposite side of the world from the U.S., you guessed it... Many things are 'opposite' in terms of thinking, living, habits, and customs!  Elements of life that have developed, with some continuity, for hundreds, possibly thousands of years.  They've used their own numbering system until very recently. And the language... Well, good luck learning how to speak or write Chinese!

We landed at Pudong International Airport (from Bangkok), to discover its as big and modern as any airport in the western world!  We walked for 'kilometers' (it seemed) before getting to our luggage (Ms. Fiets in a box).  Luckily, Subodh's neice was there with a friend to assist.  They commandeered a vehicle and drove us into Shanghai (maybe 50 KM).  I'll never forget seeing oleander bushes in bloom along the highway, and thinking... this is California.

They found us a hotel adjacent their school, the 'Second Medical University of Shanghai,' in Puxi (west of the Huangpu River).  Subodh and I ended up sharing a room together, his wife staying with 'the girls' in the dormitory.  It was reasonably priced (something like 200RMB per night / $30 U.S.).  Note, there are 5-star hotels in Shanghai where you can pay western rates ($2-300U.S. per)!

This was my introduction to Shanghai, this neighborhood  -- between Fuxing and Hefei Roads.  Shanghai Second Medical University straddled a busy boulevard on the west and Tibet Road was on the east.  This neighborhood, by the way, just south and in walking distance of People's Park, or 'ground zero' in Shanghai.

It was teaming with people, people, and more people, honking vehicles, hawking vendors, bicycles, motor bikes, laundry handing everywhere to dry (takes a long time in Shanghai) and the mass madness (pushing and shoving) that is unique to China.  Old men sat on folding stools, their pant's legs pulled up fanning themselves, groups of men playing Mahjong's or cards (gambling).  There was the sounds of endless chatter, laughing, yelling, screaming, bells ringing, honking, music, a cacophony of sounds unique to China!  I wonder now how I have survived?

I remember walking and searching for a net bar (to check email).  I had trouble finding one, because I didn't know how to ask.  But, finally, by chance, I stumbled into one. 

Net bars, 'dens of iniquity' in China, are interesting... They're usually dark, only computer screens illuminating the void.  But then there's lots of noise, young boys yelling and screaming as they 'kill' whatever 'villian' in whatever video game they're playing.  The cigarette smoke and ashes rising and falling, intolerable to me.  But, they cost hardly anything, as I remember maybe 2 to 4RMB / .50 cents per hour (but always a deposit required).  Many times, however, the keyboard, having been pounded upon, didn't work, or the mouse, the old roller ball, hardly getting you to where you wanted to 'click.'  Most of the people in these Net Bars were either playing games or watching a movie.  The Internet in China is not for communication or business, but for entertainment.  Me, I was there to check and respond to my email messages.

After the graduation of Subodh's neice (Nisha, by the way), we took the train to Beijing.  I'd never been there before and was happy to tag along with Subodh and company.  I remember the train ride was over night before arriving at the Central Station in Beijing.  Nisha, being able to speak Chinese (a requisite for Chinese Medical School) found us a hotel, out of the way, but good.

We did all the usual things tourists do in Beijing.  Tiananmen Square, where a Chinese man had his daughter demonstrate her English to me (he beamed when I complimented her).  I remember the big electric count-down clock to the Olympic Games (something like 1,100 days to go) on a building opposite the Square.  There was the iconic 'Heavenly Gate,' on the north side of the Square, where a huge portrait of 'Chairman Mao' looks down upon the masses.  We didn't tour the Forbidden Ciy, however, and I forget why... Maybe it was 'forbidden' at the time? Mao's Mausoleum is at the other end of Tiananmen Square.  But, I refused to go with the group as I would have had to check my backpack and then wait in a long line (sorry, Mao).  Waiting outside on a sidewalk I had a better time observing everyday Beijing life. 

One day we rented a vehicle and drove west (60KM) to the Great Wall National Park.  I enjoyed this, as out in the country and got to walk a portion of the Great Wall (pictures at www.cyclingpeace.org/gallery/).  

We also visited World Park (west side of Beijing), where other country's icons, like the Statue of Liberty and the Eiffel Tower, are in miniature.  But, I only remember the humid heat.  Actually, I was happy to depart Beijing.  I remember waiting in sweltering hear for our train at an outdoor 'restaurant' on the great plaza in front of the Station.  Then the mad dash to beat the hordes to our coach, and our compartment!

Riding a passenger train in China is an experience!  Be prepared for: pushing, shoving, loud music, spitting, snoring, coughing, food 'hawkers' up and down the aisle, clearing of congested throats, smoking in the vestibules and unclean washroom/toilets.  And this, if you buy a higher class ticket.

I once tried a 'hard seat' (third class) out of Chengdu on my way to Urumqi, a 24-hour trip.  First comes the stampede to the coach, as passengers compete for baggage space (the rack above).  Me, not being particularly aggressive, waited, but then some kind Chinese person helped me store my luggage up on the rack.  I was the only 'laowei' (foreigner) in the coach. 

My window seat was directly across from a mother with two young children.  Of course, the children were fascinated with me.  I was cordial in the beginning, but when they began climbing on me, I set them gently onto the floor.  The mother ate sunflower seeds, spitting out the shells onto my feet ignored her children and falling asleep.  The father (or male partner) sitting in another seat was little help either.  The seat backs are straight up, so it's difficult to find a comfortable position (thus the name, 'hard seat').  It was torture for me.  When the children become too obnoxious, I motioned to the 'husband,' to get them, and understanding my expression he took them to his seat (smiling).  But, by now I'd pretty much had it dealing with all the discomfort, and we still had another 18 hours to go!

I got up and walked to the center of the train where they have a train official (all of them are in uniform) selling 'upgrades.'  You can change your seat to a berth if they have any available.  And the good part is they compute the kilometers, and you pay only for the distance remaining to your destination.  A Chinese man who could speak some English helped me ask for a 'hard berth.'  They checked and said none were available only a 'soft berth' (more expensive).  I declined and returned to my hard seat.  But, amazingly, it wasn't much later that a train official appeared gesturing to me to follow him, and to bring my luggage.  Seems they'd discovered a vacant hard berth.  You can imagine that all eyes were on me as I left the 'hard seat' coach (never to return).

When we returned to Shanghai from Beijing (had a hard berth), my Nepali friends were 'short timers,' as having to return to Kathmandu.  In fact, they were taking Nisha back with them.  But by then, Nisha had introduced me to a Nepali boy, named Bhuwan.  He had another year to go before graduating, so he'd be around to help me (could speak Chinese as well).  He turned out to be a very good guy and helpful.  I took him to the only Nepalese restaurant in Shanghai, 'Nepali Kitchen.'

Since I needed a place to live 'Stephanie's father offered me a room in his office.  His office was on Dong Tai Lu (Road), in a high rise building.  Ironically, this was within walking distance from where our hotel and the school was located.  Stephanie's mother was so thoughtful of me too, as she converted her office into 'my room,' and this down to new slippers under my cot.  And from my 23rd floor window I had a panoramic view of southeastern Shanghai (pictures available at www.cyclingpeace.org/gallery/).  I'll never forget experiencing 'Spring Festival Eve,' in this room, the fireworks exploding everywhere outside my window.  I never got to sleep that night because of the noise was so loud (like a 'merry little war').  It went on all night long!

The first order of business to stay longer in China, was renewing my visa.  After discussing this with 'Stephanie,' her father recommended an 'F' (business) category visa, rather than 'Tourist.'  This good for six months, and you can renew once before having to depart the country.  So, they supplied the necessary documents from their company Gongming, and one day we drove to the PSB (Public Security Bureau) office (for our district). 

'Stephanie' did the talking of course.  But, after a time I could sense it was going badly.  'Stephanie' explained I was going to have to pay a fine, as I hadn't registered within the prescribed time.  Note, all foreigners have to register with the PSB if not living in an approved hotel (which does it for you).  And foreigners are supposed stay in approved hotels!  But, then for some reason 'Stephanie' switched from speaking Mandarin to the local Shanghai dialect.  Who knows why, but it saved me from having to pay the fine.  Turns out it's not only who you know, but what language you speak.  I got registered, which is the first step in the process of applying for a visa.  You have to remember the 'GRC' is a 'police state.'

Next step, we had to drive out to the huge, but new 'Immigration,' office/building with a name to remember (always so long):  'Shanghai District of Enter and Exit Visa Official Station, Pudong District, The People's Republic of China' or something to the effect.  But, wow, this was so organized and efficient (with all the signs in English as well as Chinese).  They even had a Cafe on the ground floor.

Escalators take you up to the Visa Department through an atrium on the Third Floor.  Here you take a number (from of a machine) and wait your turn.  Because Shanghai has a population of 22 million (plus many foreigners) you can imagine the size of the waiting room.  I think, after filling out the documents, we had to wait an hour.  When my turn came, 'Stephanie' went with me as these uniformed clerks speak little, if any, English.  We were informed to return in so many days to pay for visa (if everything in order).  Of course, you leave your passport with them.

Returning on the day as directed, we went to the ground floor (adjacent the Cafe) to collect and pay.  I don't know how much money China (other countries) makes from 'the visa business,' but considerable (millions, billions).  I forget what mine cost for six months, but hundreds of RMB (note at the time the exchange rate was 8RMB to 1 U.S.$).

For the next few weeks I investigated Shanghai on foot.  I didn't want to take Ms. Fiets out of her box, as I knew I'd be heading west soon.  I walked all over Puxi (western district), as far as Suzhou Creek to the north, The historic Bund on the Huang Pu River, and west into the 'hippest' part of Shanghai (Note, You can generally tell by the number of Starbucks available).  I discovered a western-styled 'health food' restaurant on Fuxing Road (operated by an American) called 'Zentral.'  I took to eating there, of course.  I discovered the Foreign Languages Bookstore of Fuzhou Road, the fourth floor all English books.  Generally speaking, Shanghai, is the most 'hip' of all Chinese cities because so many 'laowei' (foreigners).  Of course, Hong Kong, even more so but with western prices!

One day, 'Stephanie's' father, took me on a tour of greater Shanghai.  This in his latest Nissan automobile (had a backup camera and navigation software) -- such luxury.  Driving for hours I discovered how immense Shanghai is.  We drove way out east in Pudong toward the International Airport and the 'city' never seemed to end.  Shanghai reminds me of Los Angeles for many reasons.

One day we drove out to Hangzhou (100KM west of Shanghai) to attend 'Stephanie's Christian Church's baptism event in a country club pool no less.  I'll never forget how humid hot it was, as we stayed outside during this 'event.'  This 'country club,' was a western-styled development not unlike anything you'd see in Texas.  But, here in China these large single-family dwellings are called 'villas.'   And only the very, very rich can afford in China.

Since 'Stephanie' was working for a company in Hangzhou, she invited me out to visit.  The company, Apollo, actually had their headquarters in a town called, Deqing, north of Hangzhou. I took the train to Hangzhou then was picked up in a company car and they drove me up to Dequing.   I remember their office was up in a high rise building, an open room with the standard computer cubicles.   I met Stephanie's colleagues, particularly two young Chinese men, one named 'Leo.'  There were living in the company's guesthouse where I was to stay.

So after work we drove out to this guest house, though hectares of growing plants (the company was basically a plant 'nursery'), hilly countryside, tea plantations, and finally up a llittle hill to their 'villa.' It was quite a western-style villa.  I had an air-conditioned bedroom to myself.   The house had a computer room where I could get on line.  It had TV in the living room.  It had a western-styled kitchen (with refrigerator).  Everything was 'cool' except the outside temperature.  Actually it was the 80% humidity that got me!

But, in the week I spent there I got to learn, not only about their plant business, but about this part of China (Zhejiang Province).  I hiked through bamboo forests in the surrounding hills.  I learned about tea, how it's grown and processed.  I got to know the two young Chinese men.  I got to know China outside of Shanghai.

One day I got to meet the big boss who had an office at one of the Universities in Hangzhou.  He was as urbane and western, and spoke English, as anyone you'd meet in the U.S.

This was my introduction to China, eastern China (Beiing, Shanghai, Hangzhou, Guangzhou, Shenzhen), which is very different than western China!

I'll never forget telling 'Stephanie,' much later of course, that I was moving to Xining.  She said, 'Where's that?'  Shanghaiese are very much like New Yorkers (ethnocentric).  China ends for them at Hangzhou.  Beyond that is the frontier, the 'outback,' and wilderness to them.  To me it's 'my China.'